February 18, 2012

Stories of line 4, Metro de Paris

After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro, (check back in the blog for some other stories written before). I will try to write a bit on each line ,sort of like an historical anecdote rather than photos, maybe one if can find it. The story is the important thing here.

Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Tonite I will talk about line 4 of the Paris metro.

It links the north and the south of Paris, the line was progressively built starting in 1908 and not all station connected until 1910. Not before complaint from the scholars at the Institut de France of the noise, and the line diverted to chatelet and ile de la cité. the line was enlarged in 1977 with the station Les Halles ,dug 30 meters deep to accommodate the RER train line. It is expected to be enlarge again this year with the extention to mairie de montrouge.

I pick to begin the porte de Clignancourt, ,this village was ,also, annexed to Paris in 1860. It belongs to the abbey Saint Denis and eventually abbey of Montmartre,the flea market came to be by the walls of the old fortified walls of Thiers. You have a small cementary St Ouen at 69 ave Michelet where lies Alphonse Allais and Suzanne Valadon. then we move on to the flea market, its huge, the marché aux puces de Saint Ouen; it is really a flea market amongst a flea market counting about 16 different venues. Easy on to porte de clignancourt.  The fame resto Le Picolo 58 rue jules vallés is very nice to drink a small glass of white wine or picolo since 1919! My favorites markets marché malik,marché Biron,Marché Vernaison,,and marché Dauphine.  We go inside Paris to Etienne Marcel, line open in 1908 named after the prevost of merchants: You can see the vertiges of the middle ages at the Arbre à liége, 10 rue Tiquetonne. See the wonderful tour de Jean-Sans-Peur ,duke of Burgundy that remains of the hotel de bourgogne, at 20 rue Etienne Marcel. See another Passage du Bourg-l’abbé open from 1827, see at 120 rue Saint Denis. And insist to go to the passage Grand-Cerf at 145 rue Saint Denis, 113 meters long with 12metershigh full of elegant boutiques, and it was here that the carriages coming from the east of France had its terminal. Grand is the Patisserie stôhrer with the best baba rhum in Paris since 1730! the pastry maker to the king of Poland for which the famous cake was invented.

Moving on to Les Halles, the belly of Paris, the food market of the city since Philippe Auguste times!!!In 1851 Napoleon III ask Baltard to dothem in metal, finally the market moves to Rungis, and here it becomes the Forum des Halles ,again renovated and enlarge today. See the wonderful eglise or church of Saint Eustache built from 1532 to 1667AD, and the patron saint of the hunters,and after having an encounter with the deer Louis XIV had his first communion here.2 impasse saint eustache ,nearby the nice fountaine des innocents at the corner of rue saint denis and rue berger,, serve as model for the famous Wallace fountains. Have a drink at the Le Saint Eustache, 14 rue de montmartre, ,and of course the Forum des Halles for its many stores,  see at www.forumdeshalles.com

You come now to the center, Cité ,the line was open first, then the station open in 1910.It was with republique the first station dotted with elevators! in 1911; the frozen of the seine to -25c wa needed  so we can pass the stones here very sturdy, work was slow, and the stairs needed to bileveled them 13 meters! An architectural marvel underground. You have the magnificient Cathedrale de Notre Dame, built bet the 12-14C, beautiful decoration and a front portal showing the hell entrance to the left and the heaven entrance to the right. There is a rosace of 10 meters in diameter under the galeries des rois, and do not miss the Trésor or treasure room. Parvis de Notre Dame,pl Jean Paul II as it is now call. Here is the point zero of distances in France done from 1924. The marvelous Sainte Chapelle, tohost the relics of Christ, a must to see at 4 blvd du Palais. The Conciergerie, old palace of the Cité, the wonderful tour de horloge, the first public clock in France,inside the biggest gothic room in Europe! not to mention last living place of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. See the wonderful palais de justice,the old section of the royal palace of the cité, built around the year 1000AD It has 4 hectares in land, 24 kms of hallways,7000 doors, and 3150 windows ! See it all at blvd du palais. Not to missed the side streets such as 10 rue Chanoinesse, two lovers met here Heloise and Abélard in the house of uncle Fubert. and at 1 rue des Ursins see the pastiche of medieval houses done in 1960. Have a glass and see the world go by at Brasserie Les Deux Palais, 3 blvd du Palais, take a look at the librarie Shakespeare and Co.37 rue de la Bucherie. A wonderful old section of Paris even if heavily touristic.

We come now to Saint Michel , he is shown facing the devil or satan in the fountain statue at the crossing of place saint michel quai grands augustins, quai et blvd Saint MIchel; the station open in 1910. Of course see the fountain built in 1860; see the wonderful library ,one of my favorites Gibert Jeune at the pl saint michel and the other at 26-34 blvd saint michel. Have a drink at the Le rive Gauche, in the plaza or Saint severin at http://www.saintseverin.com/   see since 1957 great musicals at Théatre de la Huchette at 23 rue de la Huchette  Move over to Odéon, station open in 1910. the site of the théatre français in 1779 and takes the current name in 1797, you can see in the station, at the platform direction porte de clignacourt a bust of Danton, marking the site where he live during the French revolution. A nice building here full of fish decor is Fish La Boissonnerie, at 69 rue de Seine. The wonderful court de Rohan by the rue du Jardinet or the cour du Commerce Saint-André, Rohan for Rouen the building of the bishop of Rouen,here Henri II had stayed his favorite Diane de Poitiers, and find a tower of the time of Philippe Auguste. Going over to the cour du Commerce Saint André, see houses from the 18C at No 9 lived M Guillotin the inventor of the deadly headless machine, go in by blvd Saint Germain. a nice old walking tour is to take on rue Séguier, git-le-coeur and rue suger, narrow street and low hanging houses as like time has not change them at all. The frightful Musée Dupuytren, 15 rue de l’Ecole de Médécine, done in 1835 at the old convent of cordeliers the pathological examples of medicine and pieces of corps in jars!!! moving right along see the Musée d’Histoire de la Médecine at 12 rue de l’Ecole de la Médécine. Do not missed the Odéon Théatre de l’Europe at pl de l’Odéon and see the holes of bullets from WWII during the liberation of Paris. See the erotic gestures in front of you in the rive gauche de Paris: at Théatre érotique Chochotte, 34 rue Saint andré-des-arts. Have a glass at Le Danton, 103 blvd Saint Germain, Café de l’Odéon, and my favorite the Le Comptoir du Relais,  carrefour de l’odéon. Do not missed the chocolates of Georges Larnicol for a taste of Bretagne in Quimper at 132 blvd Saint GErmain.
We arrive at Saint-Germain-des-Prés,  from 555AD St GErmain built the first abbey here.The relics of king Childebert the son of  Clovis are kept here.See the wonderful Pont des Arts, the first bridge in Paris done in iron from 1801. See the wonderful library La Hune, 170 blvd st germain, L’ecume des pages at 174 blvd saint germain its one of the most respected in Paris the reference of librarians. The fame and prestigious Institut de France, 23 quai Conti, done from 1663 by Le Vau, see the spectacular dome of Quatre Nations, and like me that went in and had meeting at the famous salon Victor Hugo, where he gave lectures. many famous here and by me very touristic price are the Café de Flore,Les Deux Magots,and Chez LIpp, I rather sip a coffee at Emporio Caffé, 149 blvd Saint Germain. Moving on to another oldie at Saint Sulpice , built the church from 1211AD and the famous Da Vinci code was done here, the station open in 1910.  There is a nice theater here, Théatre du Vieux Colombier from 1913 at 21 rue du vieux colombier, it is an annex of the Comédie Française; have a nice pizza and drink at Pizza Chic, 13 rue de Méziéres or enjoy a drink at Café Saint Sulpice at 127 rue de Rennes.
 
We arrive at my meeting place and entry point into Paris today, Montparnasse-Bienvenue station.  The mont parnasse was a small hill, the station was first call Maine on line 5, then add the name of Bienvenue in 1933 to that of the train station it is today montparnasse. You have the museum of the post office here, 34 blvd du Vaugirard, and the better musée Bourdelle at 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle a disciple of Rodin. See high up the train station the jardin de l’Atlantique done in 1995 in the form of a great cruise ship. Go up to another look of Paris from above, the Tour Montparnasse done in 1973 with 59 floors and 25 elevators, the one from ground floor to the 56 platform can do in 38 seconds! The Cafe Montparnasse at pl 18 juin 1940 is great for a drink, the Pizza Pino, and the Le Plom du Cantal at 3 rue de la Gaité is wonderful.  Move on to Vavin,  station open in 1910. See La Coupole an old burnwood depot turn into Brasserie in 1927,and the rest is history. Le Select at 99 bvld Montparnasse, La Rotonde, 105 bd montparnasse, and Cubana Cafe for Cuban food,and Hacienda del Sol for Mexican food the real one in Paris.
 
We continue on to Raspail ,line open in 1906. here you have the fondation Cartier at 261 blvd Raspail, and the equally famous cementary of Montparnasse there since 1924 with great names such as Sartre,de Bouvoir,Gainsbourg,Baudelaire, Kessel, etc entry 3 blvd Edgar Quinet. See the wonderful La Closerie des Lilas at 171 blvd du montparnasse. We arrive at Denfert-Rochereau, it marked the distance between the via superior (today rue st jacques) and  it via inferior (as the barrier to hell), name after a resistance fighter n the war of 1870 at the Belfort where the lion symbol represent the heroisme shown there. The station is one of the first ones tohave mechanical stairs.  See the Villa Adrienne English style by 19 ave du General Leclerc, Villa Hallé, like been in the country, by rue hallé. See the Lion of Belfort statue, a reproduction to the one found in the citadelle at Belfort done by Bartholdi in 1879 (same as he who did the statue of liberty for NYC) see at pl denfert-rochereau. A souvenir of the barrier of hell is the Pavillons Ledoux, here we pay to get into the city,and today is the entrance to the catacombes, to do a bone resting place since the 18C with 130 steps down Paris, about 6 million dead are here,by 1 avenue d Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy. Finally see the Observatoire founded by Colbert in 1167AD and today the heart of French astronomy research at 77 avenue Denfert-Rochereau. I have stop for a cafe and drink at Café le Paris Orléans at 129 ave du gen leclerc.
 
Hope you enjoy the trip.

February 16, 2012

Encore Paris, never enough of Paris….

Well Paris has just been name the world’s best university town !!lol!!! And here is the webpage to prove it ::)  http://www.topuniversities.com/student-life/best-student-cities/2012/

I knew it had a good student numbers, sometimes restricted by the hours and the public transport system, and sometimes by noise laws going back to Lutétia; but it is lively,and this report proves it.

Good timing because I just came back to lovely Paris, another day of meetings but enough time to wander around my beautiful city. All along the Champs-Elysées, and Grand Palais, the Théatre du Rond Point with its panorama architectural building, just great, webpage http://www.theatredurondpoint.fr/ ,and the wonderful Church St Joseph, the center of American Catholics in France at ave Hoche, then the beautiful magnificent parc Monceau , this is the page from the city of Paris mayor’s office, in French, usually more info than the English version, and you can translated online; http://parcsetjardins.equipement.paris.fr/Parc_Monceau , the Porte maillot, and the several train stations passed on my way to the city from the TGV Atlantique window.

The city was damp humid gray but nice,no rain,not cold a wonderful time to walk. I had my llunch at company HQ by Porte Maillot,and went back to ave Friedland for meetings before heading back home. Just my house in Versailles is sold pending the closing paperwork, and I will be on a business trip to exotic Cuba next Sunday. So until next week be good, rock, enjoy life, and be happy dont worry life is not crappy. Cheers

February 15, 2012

Stories of line 3, metro de Paris

After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro, (check back in the blog for some other stories written before). I will try to write a bit on each line ,sort of like an historical anecdote rather than photos, maybe one if can find it. The story is the important thing here.

Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Today I will talk about line 3 of the metro de Paris.

It goes from Pont de Levallois-Bécon (Levallois-Perret) to Galliani(Bagnolet); ironic its not the third line bu the fifth line of the metro de Paris. It open by sections from October 19 1904, and it later added a side line call the ligne 3bis by Gambetta. It was the first line to have steel rails in use still today.  It also, has one of the phantom stations in Paris at HAXO,built in 1921 but never open to the public.

We skip and hop to Wagram, one of the historic moments of Napoleon Ier in 1809. It has picturesques streets such as that of rue Fortuny, after a Spanish painter ,see No 8, 22 ,and 35 for architecture marvels.  Also go to 134 avenue de Villiers for the example of the stairs in pins architecture. This is the area where I shop for the house, for my father’s Spanish groceries at Cap Hispania, 23 rue Jouffroy D’Abbans, wonders of Spain. Have a glass and chat at Le Central, 65 rue Prony or a nice drink and meal at Brasserie Royal Villiers, 4 pl de Champerret. Move on over to nearby Malesherbes, he was the defender of the king during the process of the convention of 1792, and cause him to be guillotine as well; full name Chrétien Guillaume de Lamoignon de Malesherbes. Here see the imposing Hôtel Gaillard (the Banque de France) building built between 1878-1884 modeled after the Chateau de Blois in the Loire, it is at 1 pl du Général Catroux.  At this plaza, place du Général Catroux biult in 1862 and named in 1977 after the general that sided with Charles de Gaulle, you will find the statues of Alexandre Dumas, father and Sarah Bernhardt. Nearby find the musée Jean-Jacques Henner, the alsacien painter that is house in the shop of painter Dubufe at 43 avenue de Villiers.  Here have a meal and glass at Dôme de Villiers, 4 ave de Villiers.  Moving in to known quarters at Havre-Caumartin, name after the city of Le Havre and the merchant Caumartin who help clean up Paris from 1774-1784. You will see the nice church of eglise Saint Louis d’Antin,  it was before the chapel of the convent of capucins now the lycee Concordet (high school by gare st lazare). it is at 63 rue de Caumartin. You have the works of arts such as the L’Heure pour tous d’Arman, many clocks mounted on each other to create a tower at the parvis de la gare st lazare. Nearby you have the famous dept store Galeries Lafayette, and Au Printemps. One of my favorites in the city to eat and drink is the Le Clos Bourguignon, 39 rue Caumartin. You ,also, now have a nice cafe at le Deli-cieux on top of the store au Printemps on the 9th floor. We arrive at my old working area of Paris, metro Opéra, the building was done by Charles Garnier by order of Napoleon III.  Therefore known at the Opéra Garnier, a jewel done in 1874.  On top of it you have the best honey of Paris ,where you can buy them at nearby fancy Fauchon pl de la Madeleine. Nearby you have the Opéra Comique built by order of Louis XIV burned in 1838, rebuilt from 1840, where George Bizet works triumphs.at 5 rue Favart. The unique musée de la Parfumerie Fragonard at 9 rue Scribe is another interesting place to visit.  You have an interesting stockmarket type drinking establishement at Footsie’s rue Daunou, as well as Cafe du Cadran.

We move on to the real stockmarket of old at Bourse,   The palais Brongniart, built from 1808, with a glass dome of 25 meters high, it now host every year the famous le revue du vins de France wine tasting event in may, 28 pl de la Bourse. Nearby the church Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires an old augustin convent where it was the chapel open with Louis XIII in 1629AD; it was the last bastion of the Protestant huguenots that left after the French revolution; it was the site of the National Lottery of France, then stockmarket of the directoire, and back to the religious cult in 1802 to this day. it is a high rite of pelegrinage today and one of its attendant was St Theresa de Lisieux. You ,also, have the Galeries Vivienne et Colbert near ,built from 1823 and 1826 respectively. One of the classic of Paris is here Brasserie Gallopin, from 1876; great eatery at 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires; another is the Le Truskel, 12 rue Feydau, high lieu of rock and roll to early hours of the morning, and Le Social Club,142 rue de Montmartre, where Clemenceau publish the I accuse of Emile Zola, now a high temple of electro rock music.

We move on to Réaumur-Sébastopol, previous name of Rue Saint Denis was renamed in  1907. You see the architecture of the building at 51 rue Réaumur, the old store of Felix Potin today the HQ of Monoprix. You can see the Passage de la Trinité after an old orphanage ,go in by 21 rue de palestro or 164 rue Saint Denis. The house or maison of Nicolas Flamel it is said to be built from 1407 and consider today as the oldest in Paris, see at 51 rue de Montmorency.  We move quickly to Arts et Métiers, where one of the oldest wooden escalators are still in use. See the wonderful Musée des Arts et Métiers inside the old abbey of Saint Martin des Champs, closed after the French revolution ,over 8000 objects awaits your curiosity inside,at 60 rue Réaumur.  Have a drink at the Le Royal Beaubourg, 105 rue Beaubourg, and have some nice shopping at the Marché des Enfants Rouges by 39 rue Bretagne;,name after an old orphanage that was there and house the kids in red sheets.

You now come to my neck of the woods at night, République, the station has five correspondance stations, tops together with Chatelet. it is at the same spot of the old porte du Temple on the old ramparts of Charles V, then it was named Place du Château d’Eau, the first fountain was put there in 1811; after it was the site of radical and socialists to come to celebrate the Republic here, and on 1878 the Paris council decided to name it Republique, the statue on the center measures 10 meters with a pedestal of 15,5 meters, all was done on July 14 1883. Most manifestations or strikes in Paris takes this as central stage today.  At is see the passage Vendôme it is 57 meters long and built in 1827, linking the streets blvd du Temple to the convent des Filles Saint Sauveur, right at the plaza or by 16-18 rue Béranger. Many places around here, Casa de Campo at Temple is nice ::) you have the théatre le Temple concert hall since 1792!!! at 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple, the café théatre de la République, 23 pl de la République, Théatre Dejazet, built in 1851 ,41 blvd du Temple, and the nightclub Le Gibus since 1967 at 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple. The classic here is Chez Jenny, alsacien decor from 1930 ,great food at 39 blvd du Temple,and Favela Chic, Brazilians moves and menu at 18 rue du Faubourg du Temple.

Slow down by Gambetta,  after Leon Gambetta who was a great politician and came to proclaim the Republique at the Hotel de Ville in 1870. AT November 11 1920 his heart is at the Panthéon. You see the nice fountaine de la place gambetta, have a drink at Bar du Metro, 10 pl Gambetta, do some shopping for fine foods at La Campagne à Paris, 210 rue des Pyrénées, get another shot of wine at Chez Betty, 14 ave du Pére Lachaise ,and see drama from the 20C at Théatre de la colline,15 rue Malte Brun. Further on at Galliani, you find the terminal of the inter European Eurolines bus company.

 

February 14, 2012

Stories of line 2, Metro de Paris

After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro, (check back in the blog for some other stories written before). I will try to write a bit on each line ,sort of like an historical anecdote rather than photos, maybe one if can find it. The story is the important thing here.

Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. Today, I will talk about line 2; open december 13, 1900. It has four above ground stations, for more than 2 kms. These are Barbés-Rochechouart, La chapelle,Stalingrad, and Jaurés. It has ,also, the biggest metro tragedy when in 1903 more than 80 persons died after a fire in one of the rails lines.

First let get on to Porte Dauphine,,name after marie antoinette,yes the one queen;where she was young stayed at the chateau de la muette (yes that area of Paris,castle now gone),the line open in december 13,1900. The best here is the omnipresent bois de boulogne done b Philippe le Bel in 1301AD. Here you have the Persian pavillion of the Universal Expo of 1889 by 11 rue des Sablons. Nearby is the nice Jardin Shakespeare in which you find the fine restaurant Pré Catalan at route de la reine marguerite. You ,also can have a drink at one of my favorites cafe Victor Hugo at 4 pl Victor Hugo. Go on to Ternes, a deform way of writing Villa Externa or external village controlled by the bishop of paris in the middle ages, later it became known as Estern and then Ternes facing the villa episcopa, by 1860 this area was annexed to Paris. The original FNAC store is here ,great architecture from 1912,see it at 28 avenue Niel. You see the nice Cathedrale Alexandre Nevski, by 12 rue Daru or the area of Little Russia (many immigrants after the Russian revolution of 1917 came here). Move over to Monceau, it was the outside limits on the west of Paris then in 1300AD, called Mousseaux;the area developed by the Duke of Chartres, it is one of the prized areas of Paris, later the Rothschild family came in as well as the heirs of chocolate Menier.It open as metro in october 7 1902. The magnificent parc Monceau is here, with a rotonda of 16 columns that came from the walls of the fermiers généraux, main entrance by blvd de Courcelles. At 25 rue de Chazelles, the statue of liberty was done,now proudly standing in New York city harbor. There is an interesting museum in Musée Nissim de Camondo,  of decorative arts, see it at 63 rue de monceau.  Have a drink at Dôme de Villiers at 4 ave de Villiers.

Coming in to Porte de Clichy,  here you go to one of my favorites at Cercle Clichy Montmartre, 84 rue de Clichy, brasserie from 1947,where you can play poker and pool/billiards. Close by is the cimetiére montmartre at 23 rue de Damrémont, to see Truffaut,Dalida,Offenbach,Nijinski amongst others resting there. The bistro de Dames, 18 rue de dames is very nice mediteranean cuisine.  Going to Blanche,  for the whites of the gypsy clay stones on the quarries of Montmartre. You see the unique church Chapelle Sainte Rita, the patron saint of prostitutes at 65 blvd de Clichy. Also the exotique musée de l’Erotisme at 72 blvd de Clichy,and who would come and not see the Moulin Rouge cabaret at least once. My visit here is to try the other branch of O’Sullivan pub at 92 blvd de clichy. Move over to Stalingrad,  name after the fame battle of WWII in Russia, it open as metro in 1903. Here better go over to the canals and the cinemas MK2 at 14 quai de la Seine, or have a drink at Cote Canal, 5 quai de la Seine.  Quickly move on to Belleville,  where the name has a street and an avenue of same name. In 1860 it was attached to Paris, going up by rue de Belleville you reach one of the highest point in Paris at 128 meters high. You see the Eoliennes de Belleville with a superb view of the city at the top of parc de Belleville going up by the rue Piat. At the regard saint Martin you still can collect potable water, you go by the rue des cascades; take a look at the cimetiére de Belleville at the angle of rue de belleville and rue du télégraphe. Here at 40 rue du Télégraphe you will see a plaque telling you are at Paris highest point. Here is great for spices, at Maison Safraoui, 31 blvd de la Villette, ro la Caire Belleville at 63 rue de belleville,and have a glass of wine at the Chapeau Melon, 92 rue Rébeval.

Continue to Menilmontant,  from the word mesnil or small farm and mauvais temps or mesnil montant from the unduling bends on the roads here. Also came to be part of Paris in 1860.  For me here is the Musée Edith Piaf, 5 rue crespin du gast, of the great French singer, the head for antillean specialties from the Caribbean at boutique et resto chez max, 16 blvd de belleville.  And we reach the end Pére Lachaise , for me that is ,named after François d’Aix de la Chase, confessor to Louis XIV built in 1803, it is a city within a city really. Need a book to walk all of it. In ironic here was installed the first mechanical stair in 1909 to carry quicker ….The cimetiére du Pére-Lachaise is 44 hectares and many famous rest here. 16 rue du repos is main entrance. A nice Indian spices store here is Le bateau de Safran,9 villa Riberolle. Villa Riberolle an old impasse road of Paris  really nice to walk by try the main house at 35 rue de Bagnolet.

Well given you the main stations I think of this line of the Metro de Paris.

Paris

by Stalingrad, canal st martin bassin de la villette

 

February 13, 2012

Stories of line 1, metro de Paris

After having worked in Paris, and living nearby for 8 years, I am amaze at the number of people coming from places where there is no subway.metro:tube and gladly jump in into the Paris metro and rave about it back home. Like it was a tourist attractions; well I like to tell some historical stories of the Paris metro, (check back in the blog for some other stories written before). I will try to write a bit on each line ,sort of like an historical anecdote rather than photos, maybe one if can find it. The story is the important thing here.

Paris has 14 metro lines so far, and it was not the first one to have one. It all started with the idea of hosting the Universal Expo of 1900, so to be ready work on the metro began in 1897. The first line was done and started on July 19 1900 to be exact on 3 wagons from Porte Maillot to Porte de Vincennes. This line is almost all underground;  except at  Bastille stop, in 1934 it was extended to Chateau de Vincennes, and by 1937 to Neuilly-sur-Seine. Very soon this line will be automated without driver that is computer controlled.

The stops are Les Sablons, began in 1937; It is here that Louis XVI bring a plant which he brought from Prussia, it was the beginning of what we call potatoes in France or pomme de terre. The best to see here is the jardin d’acclimatation where a zoo was done under Napoleon III,and still is,you can take the petit train or small train at by the parking Vinci in the palais de congres building and the porte maillot to get into the park in grand style. For lively and nice ambiance to eat try the Le Petit Maillot, 269 blvd Pereire. Another great stop is at Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile,  you can actually see the silhouette of the star shape street from top of the Arc de Triomphe at 54 meters high and 284 steps;;;for nice drinks try Le Cristal, 6 avenue de la Grande Armée, or the chain Bistro Romain at the other side of the Arc on C-E. Moving on to Georges V, after the English king done while alive on May 27 1920 for his efforts to help the French in WWI, the only king so name in Paris metro.  Many nice boutiques here, and Hotel Georges V, the building of Louis Vuitton,the Café Georges V,Crazy Horse,Ladurée, Fouquet’s ,Lido just the names;;;We arrive at a nice roundabout station name Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau, where the tiles are done by portuguese master azulejos in exchange for a arch entry of Guimard for the Lisbon metro. Nearby you have the French white house or palais de l’Elysée, 55 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Grand Palais, Petit Palais, Palais de la decouverte or discovery of sciences museum, ,the wonderful Virgin Megastore (my kids love it!!) Pavillon Ledoyen, ,the nice cafe mini palais inside the Grand Palais. Then we have Concorde, at the old place Louis XV from 1772, the guillotine was installed here in 1792 during a year. Afterward became pl de la revolution and then pl de la concorde. You see wonderful hotel Crillon, USA Embassy,and hotel de la marine, obelisk de Louxor 280 tons of granite put there in 1835: you have the museums Jeu de Paume, and Orangerie,as well as the solar cadran.  We continue towards Tuileries, where from the 13C rooftiles were done here so tuiles in French, the palais des tuileries (destroyed in 1871 razed by city of Paris 1883) and now looking to rebuilt it as it was done in 1579 by order of Catherine des Medicis. Le Notre creates the jardin des tuileries in 1664 with 23 hectares of wonders.One of my favorite parks in the city,worked nearby ::) Dont missed the Le Welcome bar, 210 rue Rivoli or Cafe l’Imperiale, librarie Galignani oldest English bookstore in the continent since 1520!!!, the Angelina cafe. We reach Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre; the palace done by Cardinal Richelieu, and of course the Musée du Louvre, the musée des arts decoratifs at 107 rue de Rivoli by the marsans wing of the Louvre; comedie française since 1786, the colonnes or columns of Buren and spheres of Pol Bury, the gardens of the palais royal from the 17C by 2 pl Colette. shop at the Le Louvre des Antiquaires, Hotel du Louvre done by Napoleon III enjoyment, have a glass or coffee at Cafe Marly, Le Saut du Loup, and if any money left try the le Grand Véfour from 1784, when it opened as the Cafe de Chartres.

Go over to the Louvre-Rivoli stop, just renamed in 1989.a beautiful church , and one of my favorites, St Germain l’Auxerrois from the 12C, here the bell sound when the massacre of St Barthelemy. Try to eat here Le Fumoir, touristic now but still grand at 6 rue de l’Amiral de Coligny. You find here the Poste Centrale or main post office open until midnight by 55 rue Louvre. We are at the mega station Chatelet, one I always ask the visitors to avoid on their first run or try it for fun with plenty of time.  open on August 6 1900 with the  name of Pont-au-change, then in 1926 it became Pont Notre Dame, and from 1934 it is Chatelet. The first station equipped with running walkways at 3kph. The pl du Chatelet, tour St Jacques(the only remains of the old church St Jacques de la Boucherie detroyed after the revolution); see the nearby streets such as Quai de la Mégisserie where the tanners were,and now birds are sold as well as flowers; pl Louis Lépine a nice flower market. Come here for Au Trappiste, 4 rue St Denis, or Brasserie Sarah-Bernhard, théatre de la Ville, and the nice jazz joint Le Duc des Lombards, 42 rue des Lombards; another nice resto is Le Zimmer. We are at the Hôtel de Ville, previously call here pl de la Gréve, where folks looking for work came, where negotiations took place for a job ,so the expression in French ” faire la gréve” is to do a  labor strike. The building of the Hôtel de Ville was burned down in 1871 as well but later rebuilt in 1883. Here De Gaulle proclaimed in 1944, “Paris, Paris outragé, Paris brisé, Paris martyrisé, mais Paris libéré” You ,also find the dept store BHV or Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville done in 1856; still here. Have a drink at le Majesty, 35 rue de Rivoli, shop mariage Frères, and the musée de la poupée or dolls museum at Impasse Berthaud. Behind the Hôtel de Ville check out La Perla tex mex brasserie at 26 François Miron. Now we are at Saint Paul, From the old hotel of Saint Pol, where a preacher prays just to the Orient, here lived Charles V,and Charles VI, it still visible a wall at the angle of rue Saint-PAul, and rue Neuve Saint Pierre. Here you find the super touristic rue des Rosiers the old jewish quarters and the musée d’Art et d’histoire du Judaisme, 71 rue du Temple,and the synagogue at 10 rue Pavée. You find here the wonderful place des Vosges where each sides measure 108 meters with a statue of Louis XIII, melted at the revolution, now name after the department of the Vosges the first in the Republic to pay taxes from 1800. A nice walk go to the pl Saint Catherine, and see around the area wonderful architecture such as Hotel de ‘Angouleme Lamoignan from 1584! built for Diane de France at 24 rue Pavée. Hotel de Béthune-Sully from 1625 at 62 rue Saint Antoine. Hotel de Marle (centre cultural suedoise_swedish cultural center) 11 rue Payenne, Hotel de Beauvais,  same year at 68 rue François Miron.Continue on to rue des Francs-Bourgeois,see no 31; rue Pavée the first pave road in Paris from the 15C, musée de la magie et de la curiosité, magic and curiosity at 11 rue Saint-Paul. I have my favorites here such as Colette at pl des vosges, Au vin des Pyrénées, 25 rue Beautreillis.

We are headed for Bastille, a middle age fortress with 8 towers of 20 meters high built between 1370-1383 under Charles V. Became a prison under Cardinal Richelieu one of its most famous occupant Voltaire. It was this prison in July 14 1789 that the official French revolution began.  You can still see some remnants of it before leaving the metro station on the line 5 direction bobigny. See the huge colonne or column call of July or Juillet marking the Troios Glorieuses revolution of July 1830 with 47 meters high. Port de l’Arsenal,  around here wood was brought into Paris and still see the carpenters and furniture makers at nearby rue du Faubourg Saint Antoine. We reach Nation,  before call Place du Trône in honor of Louis XIV, the guillotine was place here too; from 1880 it is name the place de la Nation in honoring the National Day of Bastille. At the other side on the line 9 the plaza is call Place des Antilles for the many immigrants from the Caribbean dept of Martinique and Guadaloupe. At the center of place de la Nation from 1879 lies the statue of Le Triomphe de la République. You can see two towers call colonnes d’Otroi here since 1788 signifying the barrier to enter Paris and pay taxes, it is at place de Philippe Auguste et Saint Louis.

We are at Chateau de Vincennes, line done in 1934. with 6 exits or sorties. at no 2 you go out to the Chateau de Vincennes. The donjon tower is the highest in Europe at 50 meters at the time ,ramparts of 378 meters by 175 meters. You have here the famous hippodrome de Vincennes, as well as the parc floral. Have a nice pizza at Don Bartolomeo, 22 avenue de paris.

Enjoy line 1 of the Paris metro.

February 11, 2012

My new two loves, work in Vannes, live in Auray

Well on a crisp cool sunny day, and hotter as the day worn on, we set out to do our errands and catch up as the next weeks I will do lots of foreign travel on business. This weekend was spent with the twins boys.

We started out in Auray where we live, and went to do our usual gas filling station at Leclerc hypermarche, got some groceries done there, went downtown to take some cash from ATM ,and then went on to visit a treat.

Office workers have told me about an American couple who own a cafe in a small village not far from me, so we set out to check it out. We arrive by 14h30 and on slow season food was scarse but we managed a cold Lancelot breton beer chatting with owner Ellen at the Gorvello Cafe, a cafe, with arts and music events in season, and a B&B as well. It was refreshing to see a fellow American in this part of the woods, rare but not the only ones lol!!! We promise to be back in season with the whole gang for a real show of numbers ::) the webpage is here http://www.gorvellocafe.com/

As we were really hungry we came back into Vannes, for a nice mussels on cream or moules à la créme and chorizo andalouse pizzas, with banana splits, coconuts ices,coffees,and grimbergen red and blonde beers at our favorite hangout by the Le Port area the Cat Way Pub at pl Gambetta, overlooking the pleasure boat marina and canal. all for 60€ for 3 persons.

We then set out to do some shopping in old city center of Vannes, got those Leonidas chocolates for Mom, bottle of Henriot champagne, bordeaux wines ,and cd, books ,and video games of course at FNAC. We end up back home in time for the great match tonite France vs Ireland at 21h50 French time for the VI Nations rugby tournament; allez les bleus !!!!

Tomorrow is a promise movie of Sherlock Holmes 2  at Cinéville Vannes with the twins  webpage at http://vannes.cineville.fr/programmes.php?salle=vannes-parc    and then relax for the long week ahead.  ok update before the movie we have lunch at a new place call Brooklyn Cafe a cybercafe with free wifi and internet, large screen tv anbd wii games, cafe style brand new concept and nice at Atlanville area of Vannes. The site is http://www.atlanville.fr/brooklyn_cafe_presentation.shtml  .The good news is that we finally will have a contract for our house in Versailles done next week,and we finally can look forward to be all together again by june 2012.

February 8, 2012

Some News from France LXI

Well here we are surviving a great cold spell, once four or five years we get a heavy snow time, but this time is coming back to back. Snow and polar icy weather. Paris is -9°C and on Versailles -11°C!!! wind chill,,, where I am it went down to -2°C only ::)

All these region are on alert orange for the cold, these are Alsace, Auvergne, Bourgogne, Centre, Champagne-Ardenne, Franche-Comté, Limousin, Lorraine, Rhône-Alpes ainsi que : Ariège, Aude, Aveyron, Charente, Dordogne, Haute-Garonne, Gers, Lot, Lot-et-Garonne, Lozère, Deux-Sèvres, Tarn, Tarn-et-Garonne ,and  Vienne.  In Paris the only ice breaker on the river Seine came into action !!!  to clear the canals of Ourcq, Saint-Denis, and Saint-Martin, to allow river navigation and stop folks from walking on the river lol!!! Record of electricity generation in France with  100.500 mégawatts (MW) at 19 h yesterday and maybe broken again today.

In another better news, the Tramway T3 is coming alone to start by December 2012, will hook up the périphérique and the  canal de l’Ourcq, until the porte de Pantin (20éme) It will have 26 stations. And be on the look out for 2015 a direct line from airport CDG to Opera metro area.

The according to an article in Le Figaro ,the hamburgers are taken over Paris, well I knew that, they are all over France!!! frozen food Picard, and others, yet France remains the only and first name by UNESCO world heritage immaterial winner in Gastronomy and wines !!yeah!!! Some of the better burgers joints in the city are

Le Camion qui Fume ,makes its turn regularly by the  marché Madeleine (8éme), porte Maillot (16éme),and at  Point Éphémère (10éme). Burgers 8 €, 10 € with fries. http://www.lecamionquifume.com/   Big Ferdinand  55, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, 10éme Tél. +33 ( 0) 1 47 70 54 72.open every day except saturdays and sundays, prices  Burgers 12-14 €. Livingstone Steak House 106, rue Saint-Honoré, (1éme). Tel +33  (0) 1 53 40 80 50. open every day. Bacon cheeseburger: 14 €. Fries: 3,50 €. several extras such as coleslaw, and salads): 5 €. http://www.livingstone.fr/

Some unique museums that you need to visit, while in town, apart from the popular ones are Musée de la chase et de la nature or museum of hunting and nature in the wonderful  hotel de Guénégaud, the Musée Picasso, vastly in renovation on the wonderful hôtel Salé  ,the renovation will take to reopen by june 2013, and the wonderful project of the  Maison de l’histoire de France that will be in the rectangle of the Archives Nationaleshôtels de Soubise and de Rohan). If the project is maintained it will open by  2014 or 2015. In this area of Paris 3éme you can try the first creperie in Paris,  Breizh Café 109, rue Vieille-du-Temple. Tél.+33 (0) 1 42 72 13 77), webpage http://www.breizhcafe.com/    and the wonderful  Café des Musées 49, rue de Turenne. Tél. +33  (0) 1 42 72 96 17.

Well just a bit update on things around the big town, Paris is eternal ,cant be away from it too long, you will die sooner lol!!! Cheers

Paris

looking at the Seine and bridges and Chapelle from tower in ND

February 5, 2012

Paris,once again, its endless, beautiful Paris!

One of often escapades to Versailles and Paris, combining business and pleasure. Had the TGV ticket for a meeting in Paris and was able to stop by the house in Versailles. Paris is eternal, each time it brings you closer in, until it suffocates you inhaling a wonderful drug that makes you come back again and again and love it with each try. Paris is eternal, Paris Je t’aime, t’aimer, t’aimerai!!!

All started at the gare de Vannes, taking my now usual TGV (love the drive but when company pays ::), the ride was smooth, and nice as we had First Class tickets. Arriving at Montparnasse and following up to my provided hotel at 6 rue de Colisée, Hotel le Colisée just off Virgin Megastore and the Champs-Elysées!!! Great welcome and on to my room.

Next day was meetings at HQ near Porte Maillot, lunch inside provided. Then in the evening met up with some French friends and headed for the back bars, the ones folks dont go to, but you feel the Parisien beat, a small down side bar on rue de colisée apart from tourists and hanging out with locals, beers, and amuse bouches galore until early am. The hotel was not far along. An opportunity to take pictures for the blog, somethings just passed by and never did and now with the tourist writer bug, do ::)

I head for home the next day for a quick lunch with the family and getting some work done in house. Then back to Paris for more meetings, and the return trip back. All the collegues met at Montparnasse and headed to the brasserie at grand lignes level where they created a table in the back for all 12 of us!!! Some cold beers and the usual job talks before we headed back to Vannes on the TGV arriving by 21h25/ I ,then ,need to have my car get me home about 17 kms away.

The webpage of my hotel is at http://www.bestwestern-colisee.com/index.php?lang=en and one of the symbols of Paris I went by (many times up but it was freezing…) The Arc de Triomphe at http://arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr/en/  shopping at the arcades of Champs-Elysées is wonderful and the omnipresent Starbucks cafe.

In another, there is a huge freezing spell in France going on with 43 dead, always unbelievable to me that so many die here from cold weather. I am use to heavy snow and cold, so the one here is mild. However, to the natives, it is very cold indeed/ It was -6C when I left and 6C when I arrive!!! snow was about 2 inches, but all major roads I take were clear. Many flights are cancelled at the Paris airports, so check your flights if coming now.

And France won it VI Nations rugby match vs Italy 30×12 a good start if with the weakest team. Also on taps the USA Super Bowl of American football, New York Giants vs New England Patriots, Go GIANTS!!!! If you be in Paris today or any other day you can see it at The American Dream 21, rue Daunou – 75002 Paris Site : www.american-dream.fr  or  the Hard Rock Café 14, boulevard Montmartre – 75009 Paris Site : www.hardrock.com

And now some photos on my wanderings in Paris.

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February 2, 2012

Josselin, a castle and a lot more in inland Morbihan

One more trip into inland Morbihan, last Sunday afternoon, and another great experience, I surely will be back here, and recommend to all my readers. Josselin is a castle of history and beauty, and a Canal of historic proportions, plus the quaint streets of a beautiful town.

First the general stuff, the town official tourist webpage http://www.josselin-communaute.fr/Tourisme-et-loisirs/Office-de-Tourisme-Contact

you have plenty of tourist info at the city of Josselin page, http://www.josselin.com/decouvrir.html.

You come here from Rennes on the road N24 or from the N166 direction Rennes, and at the train station in Rennes is link with Josselin by bus service. the best in public transport is the Brittany region site at http://www.breizhgo.com/index.php/bretagne/ For best parking by car do so in the Promenades high above the city and great views as you come down on foot about five minutes to the Basilique.

Things to see is the church, Basilique Notre Dame du Roncier, leyend has it that in 808 AD, a laborer find a statue in a field of rubus plants, he brings the statue to the bishop but somehow the statue comes back to the same spot that was discovered, a chapel is built there once the laborer who was blind regain his vision. It is the site of the pardon or forgiveness celebration of the virgen for 1200+ years!  every september 8th. You can climb the tower 138 steps at a height of 61 meters. Inside its richly decorated. The parish site is here http://www.notre-dame-du-roncier.fr/

Another must is the Canal de Nantes-Brest ,by 1923, the construction of the levy at Guerlédan and the railroads advancement to carry freight slow down the growth of waterways , before the canal was actually began construction in 1804, having 236 levies,  it was finally finished in 1842.  It leaves a beautiful waterway down the town nowdays nice for walks, eating, and sailing the canal, more info here in French, http://www.canaux-bretons.net/pages/presentation_nantes_brest.htm

There are many chapels or small churches around the city as typical of this region, all very nicely decorated, and with a great history behind, leave you to explore the Chapelle Sainte-Croix, chapelle de la Congrégation, chapelle Saint-Martin,and  chapelle Saint-Jacques. You can have wonderful promenades into another world, with woodend houses, old rails, and cobble stone streets, quaint nice shops, and places to eat and drink, from pl de la Resistance to pl Notre Dame,and from Pl d’Alzey to pl des Ramparts.

We then come to the castle, chateau de Josselin. webpage here http://www.chateaujosselin.fr/  . it is close the day I went but something that will definitively brings me back here. Its 8€ admission and the contact email for info is at  contact@chateaudejosselin.com.  Over 1000 years old, and to get to meet the Rohan family descendants still living there!! You need reservation as individuals to get in, or groups at different times of the year. A bit of history that I translates is by the year  1008AD , Guéthenoc, Vicomte de Porhoët, de Rohan and de Guémené, decides to built on a rocky hill looking over the valley of the Oust, a central village and a castle. Goscelinus, son of Guéthenoc, give his name to the castle which in turns becomes with the spelling of  Josselin. Inside, there is a dolls museums from 1984, done by castle owner Antoinette de Rohan , with the oldest doll dating from the 17C! This is the Musée de Poupées. There are ,also, gardens of course, A french garden, an English garden, and a rosary. The gardens admission is 7€, and guided visits are held. Actually the webpage can be turn into English ,just click on the UK flag.

It has a rich tradition of artisanat ,and artists from paintings to pottery abound. Great souvenir store in front of Basilique. We ate at Le Guethenoc, right looking at the Basilique, tel +33 (0) 2 97 70 69 57. Its a house from the 15C!! and webpage is here http://www.leguethenoc.fr/ We had 2 leffe 50Cl beers, pizza guethenoc,and la fontaine, one milkshake, one double coffee all for 39€ for two. The service was very warm,and friendly,and the ambiance very old and nice,the food splendid of course. Recommended.

And to round up the day, did not stay ,but it looks wonderful and the location is superb ,facing the castle and right by the Canal Nantes-Brest is the Hotel Restaurant du Chateau, webpage here http://www.hotel-chateau.com/ Also with a nice looking restaurant.

Hope you visit, I certainly will be back, a very enchanting town, what I dream of in France. Some photos next, and until next time on Paris1972!

 

January 29, 2012

Ploermel, another inland jewel in the Morbihan

Well today was a day to pack for the week’s trip to Paris on business, and my son back to school. So we were very busy, as a matter of fact, we went out to visit two inland towns which I have heard were nice and not too far from, about 30 mins rides. So in the morning we head out for Ploêrmel, just at the junction of the N24 and N166 roads. We went to the other in the afternoon leave for a later post.Stay tune.

Ploêrmel is easy to reach by car, N165,the N166, then just at junction with the N24 you head right into city center. It is ,also, about 45 mins from Rennes by car on the N24.  You can get all the itineraries in Brittany at this webpage http://www.breizhgo.com/ The gare or train station is at Boutique SNCF 4 rue Charles de Gaulle, open Mon to Sat from  9h30-12h and  14h -18h, right inside a shopping gallery  « trait d’union ».  The regional train lines is the TER Bretagne webpage here http://www.ter-sncf.com/Regions/Bretagne/fr/Default.aspx  .  pdf file with bus line no 4 for connection to Vannes and elsewhere here http://www.ploermel.com/pdf_horairesTIM_2011.pdf , and the site for buses in 56 dept Morbihan is here in French http://www.lactm.com/fr/

The tourist office is at http://www.tourisme-ploermel.com/. The city and nearby town in the agglomeration are here in French ,http://www.ploermel.com/

The town is nice and on a Sunday very easy to walk and park, , I park right in the center by the hotel de ville, easy time parking otherwise but today free. Some of the sights not to missed here is the church of St Armel, dates from the 15C ,you will find many historical items here such as the voute of oak tears, coffins of the dukes of Brittany Jean II and Jean III, and the mirror representing the tree of Jesse. The statue of Saint Armel as the tradition is to deposit pieces of butter as it is known to be the one who taugh the Breton how to make butter, commonly call < St Beurriau >, current statue dates from the 20C.

Another worth seeing is the Astronomical clock or Horloge Astronomique and the museum of La Mennais, all at Pl Le Mennais, and inside a courtyard, a sigh is posted walking down a driveway to it from the street about 50 meters. The astronomical clock was done from 1850 to 1855. It is free admission and its open 20 october to 31 march every day from  9h30 to 18h continuosly. April 1st to October 20 open every day from  9h30 to 20h continuously. The museum Jean Marie de La Mennais you can see its precious personal library and the presence of the congregation in the world of education. You can ,also, visit the tomb in a chapel of this great men. Admission is free all year and from 10h-11h and 15h-18h.

The next thing is to walk its narrow pretty streets,and see the action unfold, obviously on an open day, Sunday is good to take a peek and come back for better. The T Murphy’s Irish pub is an attraction of itself to check it out.27 rue de la Gare , Tel +33 (0) 2 97 93 68 68. Or the nice Cafe de la Tour, 1 pl d’Armes, Tel +33 (0) 2 97 74 05 40.

The town is nice, on the way from Rennes to Vannes, at the crossroads, maybe a nice stopping point, definitively good for a day. And more knowledge of the Breton region of France. Cheers, and some photos.

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